Grow Guide to Catnip

Plant Description

A hardy perennial herb with soft, gray-green leaves and delicate white (sometimes pale purple) flowers. The leaves are oval to heart-shaped with serrated edges and a fuzzy texture, releasing a minty, slightly lemony fragrance when crushed.

Catnip is best known for the blissful frenzy it induces in many cats, thanks to the compound nepetalactone in its leaves. Beyond feline fun, this herb has a history of use in herbal teas and remedies for its mild calming effect on humans. In the garden, its attractive scent can also help repel certain pests.

Quick Facts

  • Sunlight: Full sun (6+ hours of direct sun daily). In very hot climates, a bit of afternoon shade is appreciated.
  • Days to Sprout: 7–14 days (seeds germinate faster with proper warmth and moisture; cold stratification can improve results).
  • Days to Harvest: ~80–90 days from seed to first significant harvest. (Leaves can be picked once plants reach ~6 inches tall.)
  • Plant Spacing: 18–24 inches between plants to allow for bushy growth and good airflow.
  • Seeds per Hole: 2–3 seeds per planting hole or cell (thin to the strongest seedling).
  • Plant Type: Perennial herb (comes back each year in zones 3–9; often grown as an annual in colder or very hot climates).
  • Planting Depth: 1/8"–1/4" of soil covering the seed (just lightly buried, as seeds need some light to germinate).
  • Germination Rate: ~60% (catnip seeds naturally have modest germination; stratifying seeds in the fridge for 1–2 weeks can boost success).

Best Planting Locations

Note: Catnip can self-sow and spread. To prevent unwanted spread, consider using containers or regularly deadhead the flowers before seeds drop.

  • Windowsills: Catnip can be grown in pots on a sunny windowsill. Ensure it gets plenty of light (south-facing windows are ideal). Indoor catnip lets you have fresh leaves year-round, but you may need to rotate pots or provide grow lights to keep plants healthy.
  • Raised Beds / Garden Beds: Growing catnip in a raised bed or dedicated garden area provides good drainage and gives the plant space to flourish. It also makes it easier to contain, as you can monitor its spread. Plant it at the edge of a border or bed where it can bush out without crowding other plants.
  • Outdoor Containers: Pots, planters, or even hanging baskets (for smaller varieties) are excellent for catnip. Containers prevent the plant from spreading and can be moved around to catch optimal sunlight or to protect the plant from overeager cats. Use a pot with drainage holes and quality potting mix for best results.
  • Herb Gardens: Catnip fits well into herb gardens alongside plants like basil, lemon balm, or chamomile. Just give it its own space or section, since it can grow 2–3 feet tall and wide. In an herb spiral or mixed planter, keep catnip toward an edge for easy access and to limit competition with less vigorous herbs.

Getting Started

  1. Find the Right Spot: Pick a location with plenty of sun. Catnip thrives in full sunlight. If you’re planting outdoors, choose a spot that isn’t shaded by taller plants or structures (though a little afternoon shade is fine, especially in very hot areas). Indoors, a bright window or supplemental grow light will be needed. Also consider a spot where cats can access it without trampling your other plants, or use a wire guard to protect young plants from playful paws.
  2. Prepare the Soil: Ensure the soil is well-draining. Catnip will grow in average soil and actually prefers it a bit on the lean side (too much fertilizer can reduce its fragrance). A sandy or loamy soil with pH ~6.0–7.5 is ideal. Before planting, loosen the soil to about 6–8 inches deep and mix in some compost or aged manure to provide a moderate nutrient boost. Avoid waterlogged spots; if your soil is heavy clay, consider raised beds or containers.
  3. Plant Seeds or Seedlings: If starting from seed, sow a few seeds per spot and cover lightly with 1/8–1/4 inch of soil. Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) until germination. Thin out the seedlings so that the strongest plant remains at ~18 inches spacing. If transplanting nursery seedlings or divisions, plant them at the same depth they were growing in their pot. Water after planting to settle the soil. Consider starting seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost, then harden off and transplant outdoors after frost danger passes.

Companion / Enemy Plants

Catnip is a helpful companion to many vegetables and flowers, but there are a few plants it doesn’t get along with. Here’s how to strategically place (or avoid placing) catnip in your garden:

Companion Plants – Good Neighbors:

  • Brassicas (Cabbage Family): Catnip attracts tiny parasitic wasps that prey on cabbage worms. Planting catnip near cabbages, broccoli, kale, and other brassicas can help reduce caterpillar damage naturally.
  • Squash & Pumpkins: The scent of catnip can deter squash vine borers and squash bugs. Tucking a catnip plant near your squash or pumpkin patch may provide a protective effect against these pests.
  • Eggplant: Catnip is reputed to repel flea beetles, a common pest on eggplants. Growing catnip alongside eggplants or in bordering rows might lessen flea beetle attacks.
  • Potatoes: Interplanting catnip with potatoes can help ward off Colorado potato beetles. The strong aroma confuses or repels these pests, offering your potato plants some natural protection.
  • Roses & Flowering Shrubs: Catnip’s ability to repel aphids can benefit roses and other ornamentals. Plant catnip nearby (or even underneath rose bushes) to help keep sap-sucking insects at bay, while also attracting pollinators to the area.

Enemy Plants – Avoid Close Planting:

  • Other Mints (Spearmint, Peppermint, etc.): Like many mint family members, catnip and true mints can compete aggressively. Both spread vigorously (catnip by seed and mints by runners), so they can quickly invade each other’s space. It’s best to grow them separately, preferably each in its own container or well-separated bed sections.
  • Fennel: Fennel is known to exude substances that inhibit the growth of some plants (allelopathy). Catnip can be stunted by fennel if grown too close. Keep fennel in a dedicated area of the garden away from your catnip and other herbs.
  • Sage: Sage prefers drier, lean soil and can struggle if overshadowed or crowded by catnip. Additionally, catnip’s pest-repelling properties might deter some pollinators that sage flowers rely on. Give sage its own space apart from catnip.
  • Dill: Dill and catnip can have conflicting effects in the garden. Dill attracts certain beneficial insects (like hoverflies and pollinators), whereas catnip repels many insects. They may also compete for nutrients. It’s advisable to plant dill away from catnip to let each thrive without interference.

Attractants / Repellents

Catnip has a unique profile: it draws some creatures in while driving others away. This makes it a dual-purpose plant in your garden ecosystem.

Attracts:

  • Bees: When catnip blooms, its clusters of small flowers are rich in nectar, attracting honeybees and native bees. This boost in pollinators can benefit nearby fruit and vegetable plants.
  • Butterflies: Butterflies are enticed by catnip’s blossoms as well. Planting catnip can help support local butterfly populations and add fluttering color to your garden when the plant is in flower.
  • Beneficial Wasps: Tiny parasitic wasps and other beneficial insects sip on catnip’s nectar. In return, they help control pests like aphids and caterpillars. By having catnip around, you’re essentially inviting nature’s pest control into your garden.
  • Cats (Felines): Of course, catnip famously attracts cats. Many cats will seek out the plant, rolling on it and chewing the leaves. This cat attraction is harmless to the plant if it’s healthy (and can even be amusing), but protect young seedlings until they’re established. You might plant a “sacrificial” catnip in another part of the yard for your cats, and keep your main harvest in a safer spot.

Repels:

  • Mosquitoes: Studies show that catnip’s essential oils (especially nepetalactone) are strong mosquito repellents. While having catnip in the garden won’t eliminate all mosquitoes, brushing the leaves or having pots of catnip on the patio can help reduce their presence. Dried catnip or catnip oil is sometimes used in natural mosquito repellent recipes.
  • Flies (Houseflies): The aroma of catnip is unpleasant to many kinds of flies. Planting it near doorways or outdoor seating areas may help keep houseflies and stable flies from lingering. Some people even hang bundles of dried catnip in barns or patios to discourage flies.
  • Aphids: Catnip’s presence can ward off aphids. If aphids are a problem on certain plants, having catnip nearby might reduce infestations. Additionally, the plant attracts predators of aphids (like ladybugs and lacewings), creating a double defense.
  • Cockroaches & Ants: Nepetalactone and other compounds in catnip have been found to repel cockroaches. In the garden or home, catnip used as a border or dried and sprinkled in problem areas may discourage roaches. Ants can also be confused by the strong scent, disrupting their scent trails and deterring them from exploring the area.

When to Plant

Catnip is best planted in the spring. Being cold-hardy, it can handle cool temperatures, but young seedlings will do best once frost has passed. Here’s a general guideline based on climate:

  • Zones 3-4 (Colder climates): Start catnip seeds indoors in April. Transplant seedlings outside in May, after the last frost. These zones have short growing seasons, so indoor starting helps the plant get a head start.
  • Zones 5-7 (Moderate climates): Start seeds indoors in March and move them outdoors in April. Alternatively, you can direct sow seeds in April once the soil has warmed a bit. Catnip will germinate in cool soil, but starting earlier indoors ensures an earlier first harvest.
  • Zone 8 (Mild warm climates): You can start seeds indoors as early as February and transplant in March. Direct sowing in March is usually fine as well. Catnip in these zones will establish quickly and may even act like an evergreen perennial in mild winters.
  • Zones 9-10 (Warm climates): In very mild winter areas, catnip can be started indoors in January or sown outdoors in late winter (February). Transplant or thin seedlings by March. The plant might grow year-round here, but it prefers the cooler part of the year, so fall planting (September/October) is also an option for a spring harvest.

*If fall planting: In zones where the ground doesn’t freeze solid, you can sow catnip seeds in the fall. They will lie dormant over winter (or sprout and then pause growth) and take off in spring.

Day-to-Day Maintenance

Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist during the early growth stage. Once established, catnip is fairly drought-tolerant and can handle infrequent watering, but it grows best if it gets about 1 inch of water per week. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. In containers, check more often as pots can dry out quickly. Always ensure good drainage; catnip does not like to have “wet feet.”

Fertilizing: Catnip doesn’t need heavy feeding. In fact, too much fertilizer can cause lots of leafy growth with reduced aroma (the oils might be less concentrated). In spring, you can scratch a little compost into the soil around the plant or apply a balanced, all-purpose organic fertilizer at half-strength. That’s usually enough for the season. Container-grown catnip may benefit from a dilute fish emulsion or kelp feed once or twice in the growing season if growth looks pale or slow.

Pruning & Control: To keep your catnip tidy and encourage it to produce lots of leaves, pinch off the growing tips of stems every so often. This will make the plant branch out and stay bushier. When flower buds appear, you have a choice: if you want more leaves and a longer season, pinch off the buds to prevent flowering; this redirects energy to foliage. If you want the flowers (for the bees or for seeds), let them bloom. Either way, once the first flush of flowering is done, trim the plant back by about one-third. This “haircut” will often prompt fresh growth and possibly a second bloom. Also remove any sprawling stems that are out-of-bounds. In fall, after a couple of harvests, you can cut the whole plant down to 3–4 inches tall; it will resprout next spring (in cold regions, wait until after frost to cut it back, or leave some stems for winter protection).

Harvest

When & How: You can begin harvesting catnip once the plant is around 6–8 inches tall and well-established (usually a few weeks after transplant, or a couple of months from direct seed). For light use, simply pluck individual leaves as needed. For a larger harvest, wait until just before the plant flowers (bud stage) or as the first flowers open—this is when the oils in the leaves are at their peak. Use scissors or garden snips to cut stems, or pinch them off with your fingers. Aim to leave a few inches of stem above the soil so the plant can regrow.

Frequency: Frequent, small harvests (taking a few sprigs here and there) will encourage the plant to become bushier. If you need a lot at once (for drying or cat toys), you can cut down up to half the plant. It will typically grow back for a second harvest later. In mid-summer, a common practice is to harvest heavily (cutting most stems), then let the plant regrow for a fall harvest. Always harvest before frost in fall if you want to dry some for winter use.

Extra Tip: For best potency and flavor, harvest on a dry morning after dew has evaporated. Sunlight can cause essential oils to dissipate by afternoon, so morning harvests capture the strongest aroma. Handle the cut stems gently and get them drying or into storage promptly to preserve the aromatic oils.

Uses

  • Cat Treats & Toys: The most famous use of catnip is for feline enjoyment. Dried catnip can be sprinkled for cats to play in or stuffed into toys to make them more enticing. Even fresh catnip can be given to cats in moderation as a healthy, enjoyable treat. (Tip: If you have multiple cats, introduce catnip one at a time to avoid any fights over this exciting herb!)
  • Herbal Tea: Catnip leaves and flowers can be brewed into a soothing tea. It has a mild minty flavor with a hint of lemon. Traditionally, catnip tea is used to help with stress, sleep, and digestion. Steep about 1-2 teaspoons of dried catnip (or a few fresh leaves) in hot water for 5-7 minutes. You can add honey or blend with other herbs like chamomile or lemon balm for a relaxing evening blend.
  • Natural Remedy: In folk medicine, catnip has been used for various mild ailments. It’s known for its gentle sedative properties, so it has been used in home remedies for insomnia or anxiety. It’s also been used to help relieve headaches, cold symptoms (as a mild decongestant and fever reducer), and stomach upset. While not a replacement for modern medicine, these traditional uses make catnip a handy herb in an herbalist’s garden.
  • Insect Repellent: Thanks to its insect-repelling oils, catnip can be used in DIY pest control. You can crush fresh catnip leaves and rub them on your skin (test on a small area first) to help keep mosquitoes away in a pinch. More practically, make a catnip-infused spray by steeping a bunch of catnip in boiling water (or in vodka/alcohol for a few days) and then straining it into a spray bottle. Use it around picnic areas, on outdoor gear, or on window screens to deter bugs. (Keep it away from areas you don’t want cats investigating!)
  • Ornamental & Pollinator Plant: Catnip isn’t just functional – it can be quite pretty in the garden. Its soft-colored flowers and mounding form make it a nice ornamental border plant. It pairs well with echinacea, black-eyed Susans, and other cottage garden favorites. Plus, having catnip in flowerbeds will draw in pollinators like bees and butterflies, enhancing the biodiversity of your garden.

How to Store & Preserve Catnip

  • Refrigeration (Short-Term): If you want to keep catnip fresh for a week or two, treat it like you would fresh mint or cilantro. After harvesting, place the stems in a jar with a little water, like a bouquet, and cover loosely with a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Alternatively, wrap the freshly cut sprigs in a damp paper towel and seal them in a zip-top bag in the fridge. Fresh catnip stored this way will stay usable for about 5-7 days (sometimes up to 2 weeks).
  • Drying (Long-Term Storage): Drying is the most common way to preserve catnip for cats or tea. Gather bunches of catnip stems (remove any mature flowers if you don’t want seeds) and hang them upside down in a dark, dry, well-ventilated place. Once the leaves are crispy dry and crumble easily, strip them off the stems. Store the dried leaves (and flowers, if included) in an airtight container, like a glass jar with a tight lid. Keep it in a cool, dark cupboard. Properly dried and stored catnip can retain its potency for 6–12 months. (Cats usually prefer the dried form, as the oils become concentrated.)
  • Freezing: For a fresher flavor in tea or to preserve aroma, you can freeze catnip. Chop up fresh catnip leaves and place them in ice cube trays with a bit of water (or even broth if making cat treats). Once frozen, pop the green ice cubes out and store them in a freezer bag. These herby ice cubes can be thawed to use in calming teas or crushed and sewn into a toy for cats (expect a milder effect than dried catnip). Frozen catnip is best used within about 6 months for peak flavor/aroma.

By preserving your catnip harvest, you can enjoy its benefits (for you and your cats) all year round!